Rome

Situated on the River Tiber, between the Apennine Mountains and the Tyrrhenian Sea, the "Eternal City" was once the administrative centre of the mighty Roman Empire, governing a vast region that stretched all the way from Britain to Mesopotamia. Today it remains the seat of the Italian government and home to numerous ministerial offices. Rome has 2.7 million inhabitants while the metropolitan area is home to around 4.5 million.

Architecturally and culturally, Rome has some contrasts - you have areas with pompously huge majestic palaces, avenues and basilicas, which are then surrounded by tiny alleyways, little churches and old houses. The centre of Rome is mainly ancient, and modern buildings are usually concentrated in the suburbs, unlike Milan (where new and old architecture is combined both in the centre and the outskirts). You may also find yourself walking from a grand palace and tree-lined elegant boulevard, into a small and cramped Medieval-like street.

The abbreviation "S.P.Q.R" is ubiquitous in Rome, short for the old democratic motto "Senatus Populusque Romanus" (Latin), i.e. "The Roman Senate and People".

For two weeks in August, many of Rome's inhabitants shut up shop (literally) and go on their own vacations; many stores, restaurants and other amenities will be closed during this time. The temperature in the city centre at this time of year is not particularly pleasant. If you do travel to Rome at this time, be prepared to see Chiuso per ferie (Closed for holidays) signs on many establishments. Even in these weeks the city is very beautiful and if you are looking for a less overcrowded vacation in Rome, this is not a bad time. You will always be able to find somewhere to eat.

History

Rome's history spans over 2500 years, which have seen its transformation from a small Latin village to the centre of a vast empire, through the founding of Catholicism, and into the capital of today's Italy. Rome's history is long and complex. What follows is merely a quick summary.

Rome is traditionally thought to have been founded by the mythical twins Romulus and Remus, who were abandoned as infants in the Tiber River and raised by a mother wolf before being found by a shepherd who raised them as his own sons. Rome was founded as a small village sometime in the 8th century BC surrounding the Palatine Hill, including the area where the Roman Forum is found. Due to the village's position at a ford on the Tiber River, Rome became a crossroads of traffic and trade.

By plane

Rome (ROM IATA) has two main international airports:

1 Leonardo da Vinci-Fiumicino Airport (FCO IATA). Rome's main airport is modern, spacious, efficient, and well-connected to the city centre. A lot of carriers fly to this Airport. Also, low-cost carriers have flight to and from FCO Airport, like Sarajevo, Belgrade, Dortmund, Larnaca and Paris, Tirana (by Wizzair) and lot of destinations (by Ryanair) The main train station, Roma Termini, can be reached by a dedicated express train, the Leonardo Express (14€ each way, 30-minute non-stop journey). Be careful using the Leonardo Express, though, as many people online have complained of falling foul of its confusing rules and ended up being fined by the conductor once on the train. Coaches from several companies may stop at other places too; the average cost is 7€ if booked in advance, up to 9€; the journey takes up to an hour. Regional trains to Rome depart from the same station as the Leonardo Express; they cost significantly less (8€ to stations in Rome), but do not stop at Roma Termini. Taxis operate on a fixed fare to the centre (any point within the city's ancient Aurelian Walls). See the main airport article for more details. (updated Jun 2025)

2 Ciampino International Airport (CIA IATA) (Located to the southeast of the capital), ☏ +39 0794941. This small low-cost airport is closer to the city centre than Fiumicino and has no direct train connection. To reach it from Termini and other stations, take a train to Ciampino station, then hop on a bus that goes directly to the airport (Ciampino AirLink). The departure of the bus is linked to the arrival of the train, since the service is offered by Trenitalia through a unique and cheap ticket to Ciampino Aeroporto. Total journey is around 40 min from Termini, more info on www.trenitalia.com.

If the flight connections to Rome don't suit you, you can check flights to other airports around like Naples, Perugia, Pescara, Florence, Bologna, Pisa or Milan. From there you can take a (high speed) train or intercity bus to Rome.

About Ciampino airport

Cash machines are available only in the departures area. This is a relatively small airport and it closes overnight. You will be locked out of the airport until it opens again for the first check-in around 04:30 or 05:00. Flying into Ciampino try to sit on the right of the plane, which will fly just to the east of the centre of the city. Reaching Rome you first see the River Tiber and then the Olympic Stadium, Castel Sant' Angelo, St Peter's and the Vatican and the Colosseum. Before touchdown you fly parallel with the old Appian Way, the tree-lined road on a slight incline about 1 km (0.62 mi) to the right of the flightpath.

There are a few direct coach services from Ciampino, all of which go to the Termini in downtown Rome:

SITBusShuttle runs a line that costs €4 one-way to the centre (€6 one-way from the centre) or €8 with return (approx. 40 min, with about 25 services a day).

Terravision. This is a dedicated airport-city transfer only for the major low cost airlines. The price is €6 (from the airport to Rome Termini)/ €6 (from Rome Termini to Ciampino Airport) one-way or €11 return when booked online (approx. 40 min, with a service…

By car

In a nutshell: Don't do it. Well, some people actually enjoy it as a master class in defensive driving. Roman traffic is chaotic (and has been since the first century BC), but it is possible to drive there. However, the roads are not logical, the signs are few and the condition of the roads gets worse daily. It will take a few weeks to understand where to drive, to get where you want to go. When driving in Rome it is important to accept that Italians drive in a very pragmatic way. Taking turns and letting people go in front of you is rare, but pedestrians are usually grudgingly yielded to. Motorbikes and scooters are driven fearlessly, darting in and out of traffic and splitting lanes. There is little patience so if the light is green when you go into the intersection and you are too slow they will let you know. A green light turning to amber is a reason to accelerate, not brake, in part because the lights usually stay amber for several seconds. If you brake immediately when the light changes you are likely to get rear-ended. Parking is so scarce, that in some areas you may have to leave your car kilometers away from your destination. Rome is plagued with people who demand money to direct you to a space, even on the rare occasions when there are many places available, however the locals can make anywhere a parking space by flashing their hazard-lights, even if it looks like they are getting away with it, do not try this. While in Rome, it is far better to travel by bus or metro, or (in extremis) take a taxi.

In the centre, many areas are limited to drivers with special electronic passes. If you go into these areas (which are camera controlled and marked with the sign ZTL) you will end up with a large fine, particularly if your car has Italian plates.

By taxi

Taxis are the most expensive way to get around Rome, but when weighed against convenience and speed, they are often worth it. Roman taxis run on meters, and you should always make sure the driver starts the meter. Taxis will typically pick you up only at a taxi stand, which you will find at all but the smallest piazzas, as well as at the main train station or when called by phone. Flagging down a taxi is possible but quite rare as the taxi drivers prefer to use the stands. When you get in the cab, there will be a fixed starting charge, which will be more for late nights, Sundays and holidays. Supplements will be requested for bags that the driver has to handle, typically €1 per bag. So, if you have a limited amount of luggage that wouldn't need to go in the trunk, you may decline when the driver offers to put your bags in the trunk. Drivers may not use the shortest route, so try to follow the route with a map and discuss if you feel you're being tricked.

When you phone for a taxi, the cab's meter starts running when it is summoned, not when it arrives to pick you up, so by the time a cab arrives at your location, there may already be a substantial amount on the meter. A major problem is that taxi drivers often leave the previous fare running on the meter. So you may find the cab arriving with €15 or even more on the meter. If you are not in a hurry you should tell him (there are very few female ca…

Italians are very fond of their landmarks; in order to make them accessible to everyone one week a year there is no charge for admittance to all publicly owned landmarks and historical sites. This week, known as "La settimana dei beni culturali", typically occurs in mid-May and for those 7 to 10 days every landmark, archaeological site and museum belonging to government agencies (including the Quirinale presidential palace and gardens, the Colosseum and all of the ancient Forum) is accessible and free of charge.

Government-owned museums and historical sites have free admission on the first Sunday of every month. There are also significant discounts for EU citizens aged 18 to 25, although this will require identification. Note that in 2026, tourist fees were introduced to some particularly busy attractions: the Trevi fountain costs €2 and a €5 Roma Mic card is required for some civic museums including the Napoleonic Museum and the Giovanni Barracco Museum of Ancient Sculpture.

Roma Pass

If you'll be staying in Rome for at least 3 days, consider purchasing the Roma Pass. It is valid for 3 days and costs €58.50 (Aug 2024). It entitles holders to free admission to the first two museums and/or archaeological sites visited, full access to the public transport system, and discounts for the other museums, tourist sites, exhibitions, music events, theatrical and dance performances. This pass gets you in to the Colosseum (Colosseo), Palatine Hill (Palatino Hill), the Baths of Caracalla (Terme di Caracalla), and the catacombs as well as the Terme di Diocleziano, Palazza Massimo alle Terme, Crypta Balbi, Palazzo Altemps, Villa dei Quintili, and the Tomb of Cecilia Metella.

A Roma Pass 48-hours is also offered for €36.50 (Aug 2024) and is valid for 2 days. For this pass only the first museum and/or archaeological sites visited is free.

Check the expiration date at the back of the Roma Pass card. If the card's validity has expired it does not work in the metro's ticket gate. Be sure to buy the passes at official tourist offices. There are also small booths on the streets that sell tickets, but they could charge you a higher price.

Another advantage of the Roma Pass is that you can often skip the waiting queues if it's one of your first two free entrances. This way you can avoid, for example, a 1+ hour waiting time at the Colosseum.

There's an alternative pass called OMNIA Vatican and Rome that includes the services provided by Roma Pass, free entry to Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel, fast track entry to St Peter's Basilica and hop-on-hop-off bus tour for 3 days. It costs €113 for 3 days

Ancient Rome

The main area for exploring the ruins of ancient Rome is in Rome/Colosseo either side of Via dei Fori Imperiali, which connects the Colosseum and Piazza Venezia. Constructed between 1931 and 1933, at the time of Mussolini, this road destroyed a large area of Renaissance and medieval buildings constructed on top of ruins of the ancient forums and ended forever plans for an archaeological park stretching all the way to the Appian Way. Heading towards the Colosseum from Piazza Venezia, you see the Roman Forum on your right and Trajan's Forum and Market on the left. To the right of the Colos…

Take in a show. There are lots of theatres, but you will need to know Italian to enjoy them. The main concert venue is the Auditorium in Viale Pietro de Coubertin to the north of Rome. The Auditorium at Parco della Musica is a large complex composed of three separate halls whose shapes are inspired by musical instruments. These are positioned around an open-air amphitheatre, that is used nearly every night in the summer for concerts. The Parco della Musica hosts a constant stream of classical, popular, and jazz music, featuring national as well as international musicians and groups. Really big names perform outdoors in the summer; usually in either the Olympic Stadium or in Stadio Flaminio, which is next door to the Parco della Musica. In winter the Palalotto in EUR is an important pop concert venue.

To get full details of what is on, buy a copy of the La Repubblica newspaper on Thursdays, when it has an insert called TrovaRoma. There are a couple of pages in English but even with no Italian you should be able to decipher the main listings. This is not published in late July and August, when half of Rome heads to the beach. Both La Repubblica and Il Messaggero have daily listings.

Walk and feel the energy of Rome; sights are everywhere waiting to be discovered.

Walk or cycle along the banks of the Tiber. There are steps down to the river from close to most of the bridges. A few have special runners for cycle wheels. This gets you away from the traffic fumes and gives a different perspective of Rome. Not usually possible in winter when water levels can be very high.

Explore the Trastevere neighbourhood for some great cafes and trattorie, and a glimpse at a hip Roman neighbourhood.

Sports

Football: The men's national soccer team don't have a fixed stadium but often play in Rome.

Two city teams play in Serie A, the top tier, AS Roma and SS Lazio. They share Stadio Olimpico (capacity 70,000) in the north of the city. Matches between these two are known as the Derby della Capitale, and often suffer crowd violence.

Rugby: The men's national team play at Stadio Olimpico. The premier tournament is the Six Nations in Feb / March.

Two clubs play in Serie A Elite the top domestic tier: Lazio in Parioli district in the north city, and Fiamme Oro (the police team) at Via Portuense, west near Fiumicino airport. There isn't a team in URC the European (mostly Celtic) tournament.

Events

Estate Romana Festival (Roman Summer Festival). From late June through early September offers various musical events of jazz, rock, and classical music, and film, sport, theater and children’s fun.

White Night (Notte Bianca). In early to mid-September, various events until dawn, plus shops and restaurants, museums stay open while the Roman Notte Bianca stages music, dance and theater events. Expect enormous crowds; buses and trams will be packed to the brim.

Opera at Caracalla, Baths of Caracalla (see Rome/Aventino-Testaccio). If you are in Rome during summertime don’t miss the chance to experience a lyric opera in the truly unique setting of the Caracalla Baths. The 2009 program included Tosca, Carmen and Midsummer Night’s Dream. Performances start at 21:00.

Festa dell'Unità (Unity Party). This is a traditional popular festival, once organised by the Italian Communist Party to promote its official newspaper l'Unità ("Unity"), and nowadays kept by the Demo…

Individual listings can be found in Rome's district articles

Rome is full of good restaurants, many in attractive settings, particularly when you sit outside in the evening. No one location can be recommended to search for a good restaurant: some of the best places to eat are in the most unpromising locations while well-situated restaurants can often live on their reputation rather than the quality of their food. Restaurants in guidebooks can be good but prices can be inflated because it is more than likely a "tourist trap". To find an authentic restaurant that won't break the bank, try to find a place in a more residential area or somewhere that isn't in the middle of the tourist locations.

Many of the good restaurants in Rome are hard to find, but a good tip is to go where Italians live and eat. The downside is that waitstaff at these restaurants usually do not speak English, so be prepared to have to speak some Italian. On the top of the green, old mountain (Monte Verde Vecchio) there are some trattorias with authentic Italian cuisine at an affordable price. Rome also has many beautiful spots to eat, so buying some delicacies to make up a picnic can be a great experience. In Via Marmorata you find Volpetti's which is known for its amazing selection of cheese, prosciutto and delicious pastries (and also for its prices!). A more affordable choice is to go to a local supermarket which will also have good fresh foods for lunch.

Pizza

Most pizza restaurants serve it only in the evening. Try some of the fried things like baccala (battered salt cod) for a starter, followed by a pizza for a really Roman meal. Roman pizzas tend to be very thin crusted. Avoid the tourist areas where you'll often pay double the going rate just to get a badly reheated frozen pizza. Your best bet is to cross the river and find a restaurant in Trastevere--the food is authentic and a lot cheaper than in the rest of downtown Rome. Make sure you eat it with a fork and knife; Romans don't eat this kind of pizza with their hands.

Pizza al Taglio is pizza with a thicker crust, cooked in a large pan. This is served by the piece, usually to take away, and is a good cheap way to get something to fill you up. Point to the one you want, indicate if you want more or less than your server is indicating with the knife. It's sold by weight (the listed price is usually per 100 g, known as an etto, short for ettogrammo, i.e. hectogram). This kind of pizza is eaten with the slices stacked on top of each other like a sandwich.

Ice cream (gelato)

Look for a gelateria. Remember that it usually costs extra to sit inside. You pay for your ice cream first... take your receipt and go fight your way through the throng to choose your flavors (Italians don't believe in lines). You will be asked "Panna?" when it's almost made - this is the offer of whipped cream on top. If you've already paid, this is free.

There are a few signs to keep in mind: "Produzione Propria" (homemade - our own production), "Nostra Produzione" (our production), "Produzione Artigianale" (production by craftsmen). If the colours seem dull and almost ugly it is probably natural, the bright colours being just a mix. Also, fancy flavours like Kinder Egg…

Individual listings can be found in Rome's district articles

Coffee

Starbucks has long avoided Rome, but in April 2023 the first one appeared in the center of Rome. And no wonder: Italian coffee is great so our friends from Seattle would face a lot of competition. A latte in Italian is just a glass of milk. If you're expecting coffee in that glass, you should ask for a caffe latte. A latte macchiato (meaning "marked") is steamed milk stained with a smaller shot of espresso. "Espresso" or "normale" is just that, but more commonly just referred to as caffe. Espresso doppio means a double shot of espresso, while espresso macchiato is espresso 'marked' with a dab of steamed milk. Americano — the one to order if you like filter coffee — is espresso diluted with hot water and not drunk much by Italians. Cappuccino is well known outside of Italy, but be warned: it is considered very un-classy, and somewhat childish, to order one after 11AM (and certainly after a meal). Decaffeinato is self-explanatory, but often referred to by the common brand-name Caffe Hag.

Wine and water

House wines are almost always drinkable and inexpensive. You are better off ordering a bottle rather than house wine in most establishments in Rome due to some places watering down their wines. You may often find a bottle of wine on the table for you. Believe it or not: this bottle will be less expensive than a glass would be in the US or UK, possibly only €4 or €5. This does not always apply to those places that look really tourist-trap-like! Slightly better quality wines are usually sold at a relatively small mark-up on shop prices. Most Romans drink water with their meals. In restaurants it normally comes in 1 litre bottles and can be had normale (still water) or gassata (carbonated water).

Water is free at designated water fountains, called "nasone" (big nose). Some of these date back to ancient times, and the water is still very good. It's fresh spring water coming from the famous underground springs of Rome and is safe to drink. If you carry an empty bottle, fill it up for the rest of the day. Look for the drinking fountain with constant running water, plug the bottom hole, and cool water will shoot up from a smaller hole on top of the tap. Don't put your lips round the hole at the bottom, as stray dogs tend to like to get a drink.

Before dinner

Pre-dinner drinks (aperitivi) accompanied with small hors d'oeuvres (antipasti) are very popular with Romans:

1) chic yuppies in their 20s-30s crowd the area around Piazza delle Coppelle (behind the Parliament) and Piazza di Pietra (near the Chamber of Commerce);

2) younger generations sprawl around the square and streets of Campo de' Fiori;

3) everyone sits to drink in the narrow streets behind the Pantheon (Piazza Pasquino and Via del Governo Vecchio).

Clubbing & Night Life

Given a heart for exploration, Testaccio is the place to wander for after-dinner partying on the weekends. Head down there around 23:00 (take metro Line B and get off at Piramide station) and listen for music. There are usually loads of people simply walking through the streets or looking for parking. Be brave, walk in, meet some wonderful Romans. This area is best in the winter. In the summer, the dancing moves to Ostia and Fregene, 45 minutes by car from Rome, at the seaside. Many clubs in Rome close in the summer months.

Individual listings can be found in Rome's district articles

The area to the southwest of Termini railway station has numerous large hotels; these are used in particular by groups and coach parties. On the other side of the station are many smaller, fairly inexpensive, hotels that are popular with individual travellers. Perhaps the best choice for a first-time visitor is to stay right downtown, (such as near the Pantheon). Most attractions are walking distance from there, and you will save much transportation time and leave more for enjoying the city. Hotels in the downtown area are costly, but a good apartment is a decent alternative, especially for couples and if you don't mind cooking yourself from time to time: it will save even more of your budget.

Offering of short term apartment rentals is enormous. Many apartments can be booked directly through the owner, but most owners make arrangements via rental agencies, both large and small. When looking for a hotel or an apartment in Rome, take note that the price of accommodations varies significantly from month to month, depending on the typical number of tourists. Always check prices at your accommodation for your specific dates.

Being as it is one of the world's most popular tourist destinations, there are many choices as to where to stay, and you will have the choice of whatever type of accommodation you wish.

Rome's city council levies an accommodation tax. This is €5 per night per person for campsites up to three-star hotels and €10 a night for four- and five-star hotels. This fee can only be paid in cash, and is supposed to be for the restoration of Rome's crumbling ruins.

Hotel listings can be found in the appropriate districts, and should be added there. Please do not add listings here.

Camping

There are at least two campsites near Rome, they are:

Camping Tiber, Via Tiberina Km. 14, Prima Porta (On Rome's ringroad, take exit No 6 Via Flaminia, if arriving by public transport, take the ground-level Roma-Nord Subway leaving from Piazza Flaminia towards Prima Porta, from there there is a free shuttle service to the Camp Site), ☏ +39 06 33610733, fax: +39 06 33612314. On the bank of the river from which it draws its name. To the north of the city. There's a minimarket, a pool, a restaurant and a bar.

Happy Valley (In the hills north of the city at Via Prato della Corte 1915, Prima Porta-Cassia Bis, Roma. Take exit no 5 from Rome's ring road and head towards Cassia-Veientana. If you take public transport, take the ground-level Roma-Nord Subway leaving from Piazza Flaminia towards Prima Porta and wait for the free shuttle bus service.), ☏ +39 06-33626401, fax: +39 06-33613800. It has a pool, a bar, a restaurant and a minimarket.

Rome is generally a safe place, even for women traveling alone. However, there have been rape cases around the Roma Termini train station, so be careful especially at night time. There is very little violent crime, but plenty of scams and pickpocketing that target tourists. As in any other big city, it is better if you don't look like a tourist: don't exhibit your camera to all and sundry, and keep your money in a safe place. Consciousness and vigilance are your best insurances for avoiding becoming a victim of a crime in Rome. Remember, if you are pickpocketed or victim of another scam, don't be afraid to shout, "Aiuto, al ladro!" (Help, Thief!) Romans will not be nice to the thief.

Members of the Italian public are likely to be sympathetic if you are a crime victim. Police are also generally friendly if not always helpful. Carabinieri (black uniform, red striped trousers) are military police, and Polizia (blue and grey uniform) are civilians, but they both do essentially the same thing and are equally good, or bad. If you are robbed, try to find a police station and report it. This is essential to establishing a secure insurance claim and to replace documents: the chances of it resulting in the return of your possessions are, however, fairly remote.

Rome is home to two rival Serie A football (soccer) clubs, A.S. Roma and S.S. Lazio, and there is a history of conflict, and even rioting, between the two. Never wear anything that shows that you support either of them, especially during the Rome Derby (when the two clubs play each other, known in Italian as the Derby della Capitale): avoid even wandering into groups of supporters of the other club, or you may be subject to heckling or even confrontation. Play it safe and refrain from openly supporting either club unless you are very familiar with the rivalry. If you are a fan of a foreign team that is playing in Rome, be very careful as a number of supporters have been stabbed over the past few years.

Rome has its fair share of odd people: talkative panhandlers, crazy taxi drivers, lonely people wanting to just have a chat with strangers, people trying to sell you things, and so on. If you don't want to acknowledge anyone, do what most Italian people do: completely ignore them, shoo them off, or simply say you don't have anything to give to them or you are not interested.

Pickpocketing

Since Rome is incredibly popular as a tourist destination, a great deal of pickpocketing and bag or purse snatching takes place, especially in crowded locations, and pickpocketers in Rome can get pretty crafty. A 2010 study found that Rome was second only to Barcelona for pickpocketing of tourists. As a rule, you should pretty much never carry anything very valuable in any outside pocket, especially the front pocket of your pants is one of the easiest and most common targets. Keeping your wallet in your front pocket or in your bag is far from safe. You should consider using a money belt and carry only the cash for the day in your pocket. Pickpocketing on the Metro is rife in the form of gangs of young girls (8 to 15 years old), often pregnant, who jump on the trains just as they are about to leave. They buffet you and have bags to hide where their hands are.