Montevideo

History

There are several theories about the origins of the city's name. The "monte" part is generally considered to be the hill where the Cerro fort is now. According to one theory the hill was named "Monte-VI-D-E-O(este)", which translates to Mountain six (VI in Roman numerals) From East to West. Another popular theory is that a member of Ferdinand Magellan's world circumnavigation would have shouted "Monte vide eu!", which translates to "I see a mountain!" when seeing the hill – however, the circumnavigation happened two centuries before the foundation of the city so it might well have been another mountain he saw.

Construction of the Cerro fort, at the time called Montevieu fort, was started by the Portuguese in 1723. The following year the Spanish started building the city of Montevideo on the opposite side of the bay where Ciudad Vieja is now, and occupied and colonized the rest of the region. During its almost 300 years of existence, Montevideo has been part of the Spanish and Portuguese empires, occupied by the British for a few months in 1807 and afterwards a part of Brazil and today's Argentina before finally becoming the capital of the newly-founded Republic of Uruguay in 1828.

The unrest of the mid-19th century, including an eight-year siege, was followed by a time of prosperity, and the region was a popular destination for European immigrants. The pompous villas and parks that can be seen for example in the Prado district date from this period. In the 1950s, an economic collapse led to the emergence of a left-wing guerrilla movement, followed by a military dictatorship lasting until 1985, when democracy was restored. Today, Uruguay is run by the democratic socialist party of the former guerrillas, and it is one of the safest Latin American countries with the GDP per capita being among the highest.

Climate

Since Montevideo is south of the Equator, it is summer there when it's winter in the Northern Hemisphere and vice versa. Montevideo is in the subtropics; in the summer months, temperatures above +30°C are common during the day, but nights are often chill. The winter can be deceptively chilly: temperatures rarely go below freezing, but the strong winds wind and high humidity combine to reduce apparent temperature. There are no particular "rainy" and "dry" seasons: the average rainfall is similar throughout the year.

After it rains, loose sidewalk tiles can hide puddles of dirty water. Watch your step to avoid getting splashed.

Montevideo is on the north bank of the Rio de la Plata.

By plane

1 Carrasco International Airport (MVD IATA) (about 15 km east of the city center). There are flights to the airport from major South American cities as well as Panama City, Miami and Madrid.

From the airport there are two kinds of buses to central Montevideo. Public transit buses travel from the airport to the 2 Rio Branco Terminal (Terminal Baltasar Brum), a few blocks north of Plaza Independencia. The bus stop is right out the airport to the left where a big bus sign is visible. Take any bus showing "Montevideo"—all go into the centre. They go every 10-20 min, take 1-1.5 hr and tickets are U$107. You can get off at any stop before the station in case you have an accommodation somewhere between Pocitos and Cordón.

The second type of bus transportation is the intercity coaches, travelling eastbound to places like Punta del Este, or travelling westbound into the city. The westbound buses will take you to Tres Cruces bus station east of the city centre. A one-way ticket into the city on the COT line costs U$134 (Uruguayan pesos). As you exit the terminal, walk to the right, buy a ticket in the COT office (or you can buy it on board the bus) and walk further 20 m forwards, where the stop for those buses is. Since both eastbound and westbound intercity buses stop at the airport, be sure to check that you're getting on a bus going in the right direction.

A private company also offers airport taxi service for a hair-raising US$60. That same company ostensibly offers a shuttle service that will run when enough passengers buy tickets. However, with the same company offering both services and the margins on the taxis service being much more profitable, the shuttle service is, surprisingly, never available.

Exchanging money at the airport is notoriously expensive, with rates about 20% off the official interbank rates. So, better to opt for a "cambio" in the city centre, where rates are just about 3% off.

By ferry

Another possibility for travelers who are heading to Montevideo from nearby Buenos Aires is to take the high-speed ferry operated by Buquebus. A one-way ticket, tourist class, costs about ARS 90,000 if booked at least a month in advance and takes about 2.5 hr. There are several boats a day. The ferry arrives in the 3 Ciudad Vieja district of Montevideo, situated very close to downtown - a cab ride to a hotel in El Centro or Pocitos is much shorter and cheaper than from the airport.

Ferry service from Buenos Aires is also available via the same company Buquebus via Colonia. The ticket can include the bus to Montevideo from Colonia. This route is cheaper and about 1-2 hr longer than the direct crossing. The crossing from Buenos Aires to Colonia by fast ferry takes about one hour. The city of Colonia itself with its old buildings is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and certainly worth visiting. The bus ride from there to Montevideo's main bus terminal takes 2-3 hr and bus tickets cost around U$188. One traveler paid U$179 one-way to Colonia, about 2-3 hr. Efficient and on time.

Grimaldi Lines offers transport by freighter from European ports, the journey taking several weeks. Montevideo is occasionally also visited by cruise ships.

By bus

Buses are the only form of mass public transit available in town, so it's likely you'll use them at some point.

STM transit cards are free, give discounts on the many types of fares and allow for buses integration: U$29 for 2 buses in 1 hr or U$44 for any number of buses in 2 hr, against U$36 for the normal fare paid in cash. You can get yours at the Abitab shop on the ground floor of Tres Cruces Terminal, or in any other agreed post. Abitab minimal top-up is of U$100.

Be aware that there are no route maps at the bus stops, that the lines deserving a certain stop might not be indicated, and that the bus stop might not have any mark at all.

There are a few routing tools to help with the task of figuring out the bus system: Moovit app is a traveller's favorite because it's available in many other cities around the globe and has an intuitive interface in many languages (most notably English, Portuguese and Spanish) and Cómo ir is the official app launched by the Montevideo Administration. Other options are MontevideoBus and Bondi.

Montevideo buses are entered through the front door. The fee is paid either to the driver or to the collector (if present) sat to the right. There are many types of tickets available and you are supposed to say which one you want: if you don't know, say una-hora. Remember to take the receipt and keep it with you for the duration of your trip because control officers might board the bus and ask for them. In many buses, the "please stop" button is over the doors - observe others if in doubt.

Notice that the line CA1, which connects Tres Cruces Terminal to Ciudad Vieja, is exceptionally included on the "boleto céntrico" type of fare, so it's cheaper: U$20 if paid by card, U$26 if in cash (against U$29/36 for other lines on the same route).

On foot

Montevideo is a relatively safe city and if you are getting around by foot, you will have time to see the beautiful architecture of Montevideo. The city is built on a slight hill, the spine of which extends into the Rio de la Plata to create the point that was the original city (Ciudad Vieja). From the Plaza de la Independencia, the main street that extends east from the plaza is 18 de Julio Ave. El Centro (downtown) is in this area and there will be lots of shops and places to change money.

If you are arriving at the central bus station you can walk south along General Artigas until Parque Rodo looking at old buildings. From there you can walk east along the beach promenade which reminds of Ipanema in Rio de Janeiro. Another alternative is to walk east from the bus terminal to Parque Batlle and its Estádio Centenário - the home of Uruguay's football team and site of the 1930 FIFA World Cup. A third alternative is to walk towards the city center and the old town along 18 de Julio, it's around 4 km to Plaza Independencia.

Separate traffic lights for pedestrians are rare, in general there is just one traffic light for all traffic. Jaywalking and crossing the street outside of zebra crossings is very common. Cars are fairly respectful of pedestrians especially in the old town and elsewhere where they drive slowly. On the other hand, you're not in Northern Europe, and at the Rambla where highway speeds seem to be common, stepping out in the front of cars is an utterly bad idea!

Plaza Independencia

The Independence square is a symbol of Montevideo and lined by several prominent landmarks.

1 Plaza Independencia. The square at the end of 18 de Julio Ave., with the latter being the main commercial artery of the city. On the last Saturday of September, all the museums and historical places of interest around the Plaza Independencia open for free to the public. There is also a large "Murga," or a traditional South American parade in which all the Uruguayan political parties take part. The event is known as El Día del Patrimonio, the Day of Heritage. On the middle of the square there is a statue of general José Artigas, and under it, his mausoleum. (updated Jul 2015)

2 Palacio Salvo. Eastern side of Plaza Independencia. Once South America's highest building, the 95-m-high Art Deco building Palacio Salvo still dominates Montevideo's skyline. In the past there used to be an observation deck that could be accessed for free. U$200-300 for 30-min tour including observation deck. (updated Jan 2018)

3 Mausoleo de Artigas. This large monument in the Plaza Independencia pays tribute to José Gervasio Artigas, one of the heroes of the Uruguayan Independence. Under the monument is the mausoleum, which is open on the weekends. It contains an urn with his ashes and two honor guards keeping watch.

4 Palacio Estévez (Estévez Palace). The Palacio Estévez was the office building of Uruguayan presidents until 1985. Today it is a museum of the Uruguayan presidency.

5 Torre Ejecutiva. The current presidential office, next to the former. The Executive Tower was first planned as a courthouse in the 1960s, the project was halted several times until the house was finalized as the presidential office in 2009.

6 Edificio Ciudadela. Glass-framed office building at the western end of the square with a terrifying number of air conditioning units.

7 Puerta de la Ciudadela. A gate to the old town; if you pass through it you're at Sarandí, Montevideo's main pedestrian street. This is one of the few remaining parts of the old city wall.

8 Museo del Tango de Montevideo (Tango Museum of Montevideo), Plaza Indepepndencia 846 (on the main square of Montevideo. Plaza Independencia. Palacio Salvo. Ground floor), ☏ +598 93 416 202, [email protected]. The historic place of Tango music in Uruguay. It is the place where La Cumparsita, the Tango of all Tangos was first played 100 years ago, in 1917. It conserves the original pieces of the time, and a large collection of Uruguayan Tango history. Working victrols play tango all day long on original records. It is one of the most visited sites in Montevideo. (updated Jun 2018)

Ciudad Vieja

Probably half of what Montevideo has to offer visitors is concentrated in the area immediately west of Plaza Independecia — the old town.

Buildings and monuments

9 Mercado del Puerto. This is a covered market full of restaurants and some shops selling handicrafts and souvenirs that is worth seeing as a sight, an eating place, and as a place for shopping. The main market is open every day during lunch hours. The restaurants around the exterior offer indoor and outdoor seating, and they remain open for dinner.

10 Catedral Metropolitana (Montevideo Metropolitan Cathedral), Plaza Constitución/Plaza Matriz. The Catholic cathedral of Montevideo and the seat of the archdiocese of Montevideo. The cathedral featur…

There are practically no old movie theaters left in Montevideo: they have been rebuilt into churches. However there are good movie theaters with the newest movies in the shopping malls. All foreign movies are in the original language with Spanish subtitles.

Take a boat trip in a small boat from the pier near Mercado del Puerto.

Watch a football match at 1 Estadio Centenario. The national stadium is where the first football (soccer) World Cup was held, won by the host nation. Today it is used by the national team and by the clubs of the city.

In some parks there is public training equipment.

2 The Rambla. This waterside roadway has people biking, fishing, drinking mate, and enjoying the great views. 22 km long (13.6 miles), the Rambla goes along Montevideo's waterfront. Lovely at sunset.

Tango. Argentina claims to be "home of tango", but Uruguay was equally important on the development of this music and dance style: one of the most famous tango songs, La Cumparsita (which refers to Montevideo Carnival's cumparsas) was written by an Uruguayan composer and premiered in Montevideo, and the passport Carlos Gardel held at the time of his death stated he was born in Tacuarembó, Uruguay (although France and Argentina also claim to be his motherland). Contrary to the extremely coded and exhibitionist milongas of Buenos Aires, its Montevidean counterparts are laid back, boast a great level of dance and are almost solely frequented by locals. Hoy Milonga Montevideo lists the action, which takes place in dedicated places, bars or public squares.

3 Estadio Gran Parque Central, Carlos Anaya 2900 (in La Blanqueada neighbourhood). The Gran Parque Central is the stadium of Club Nacional de Fútbol, and it is the oldest football stadium in the Americas. It was also one of the venues of the 1930 FIFA World Cup. Uruguayan championship matches and international matches are played here. The price of tickets may vary depending on the type of match.

Events

New Year - Uruguayans celebrate the new year a bit differently from others. Festivities start before noon on December 31st in the old town. In the evening people spend time with their families, but as midnight approaches people gather at Pocitos beach to welcome the new year. After that they continue partying at bars in Pocitos.

Carnival - The carnival of Montevideo is not as famous as the ones in Brazilian cities. However it goes on for about 40 days, starting the last week in January and considers itself the longest carnival in the world. As other Latin American carnivals it contains both European and African elements. European influences include the parade with colorful carnival dresses and the most visible African feature are the drums around which the music style candombe is centered. This music style is traditionally associated with Uruguayan carnivals and it's inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list. The highlight of the Montevidean carnival is actually the Parade of the calls (desfile de llamadas) and subsequent music festival on the streets of Montevideo held the first Saturday in February - both focusing on candombe music. Another important part of the festivities are the murgas, musical-like stage performances by actors in carnival costumes held in several parts of the city.

Potatoes, rice, salad and such is usually ordered separately. If you just order e.g. a steak as it is stated in the menu and you will literally only be served a steak. Portions are usually large. In areas frequented by tourist restaurants often offer menus with several courses.

Cover charges (cubierto) are frequent in Montevideo's restaurants. They are usually around U$50.

Typical food is:

Meat — Uruguay is renowned for its meats, and Montevideo has many parrillas where they are grilled up to perfection. If you would like a large beef meal, you should head to Mercado del Puerto in the old town. In and around the Mercado there are several such restaurants. Good paella is also available there.

Chivito — This is the local sandwich, made with meat and vegetables. It can be served al plato (on a plate), which means it is going to take a fork and knife to eat it. It is tastier, cheaper and much bigger than a hamburger. 1 Marcos Chivito is one of the best places in Montevideo to get these tasty treats, as well as 2 La Mole, and some "Carritos". An excellent choice is to try chivitos in 3 Bar San Rafael.

Milanesa — is a common meat dish mostly in South America, including Uruguay. It consists of a thin slice of veal, chicken or sometimes beef. Each slice is dipped into beaten eggs, seasoned with salt, and other condiments according to the cook's taste (like parsley and garlic). Each slice is then dipped in breadcrumbs (or occasionally flour) and shallow-fried in oil, one at a time. Some people prefer to use very little oil and then bake them in the oven as a healthier alternative. Sometimes it may include a fried egg on top.

Fresh Pasta and Fresh Gnocchis — they are everywhere on the menus, with all types of vegetarian or meat sauces... usually a cheap, filling and delicious option!

Desserts — In Uruguay, desserts are huge and plentiful. There is dulce de leche on almost everything and stores that sell nothing but caramels. Many places sell nothing but dessert, so pick the one with the best looking pastries and cakes and enjoy!

Churros — Find them for sale at the "Parque Rodó". Try the sweet versions - they come with sugar on top, or filled with chocolate, dulce de leche or cream filling - or the cheese-filled ones.

Pizza — There are "pizzerías" all around Montevideo. Most make square pizzas, a traditional form in Uruguay. "Muzzas" (mozzarella) are most popular.

Fainá — made from chickpea flour and baked in the pizza oven. Quality varies among pizzerías, most delicious is the thin or "de orillo" part which is crunchier!

Food markets

4 Mercado de la Abundancia (Mercado de los Artesanos). Founded in 1836, it's the oldest market in the city. Like the one in the port it also has steak and paella restaurants, and you can buy things from vegetables to art there or dance tango. It is in the central part of the city, not far from Museo de la Historia del Arte. (updated Sep 2022)

5 Mercado del Puerto. just open for lunch, closes at 18:00. This touristy building houses a dozen or so restaurants. Most offer grilled meat, and you can find good paella, as well. It is usually quite busy - just find an open seat to be served. The most famous of the restaurants there is likely Estancia del Puerto, which was also featured on Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations", although do keep in mind that there are several other restaurants here as well, worth trying! (updated Sep 2022)

There's a wide choice of places in Montevideo for going out for a drink. However, before midnight there is very little going on, and while bars are open before that you might be the only patron. In the old town it is not hard to find cafés and dance and music locals where you can experience the local culture. The street Bartolomé Mitre in the pedestrian area of the old town has plenty of cafés and bars to choose among, but prices tend to be higher than elsewhere in Montevideo. Many establishments have a happy hour and by good weather you can enjoy your drink outside. The streets of 25 de mayo (Bacacay) and Sarandi are pedestrianized and have a range of bars and restaurants with good atmosphere. A little bit to the east, the streets San José and Soriano run parallel to Avenida de 18 Julio. On both of those streets you can find good places to spend the night. Finally, district of Pocitos is also a popular place for drinking and partying with several popular bars.

Cafés

1 la Ronda Café, Ciudadela 1182, ☏ +598 2904 3402. Mon-Fri 12:00-late, Sat Sun 19:30-late. A small café with nice interior where you can enjoy music and drink or eat. The food is a combination of Uruguayan and Mexican cuisine.

2 Cafe Brasilero, Ituzaingo 1447. Chic café with regular live performances. The oldest working café in Montevideo, it was opened in 1877 and retains a historical atmosphere with historical photos and paraphernalia. You can have different sandwiches and croissants here.

3 Porto Vanila. Chain of several cafés in shopping malls and on the street. A big variety of sandwiches and pastries.

Bars and pubs

4 Shannon Irish pub, Bartolomé Mitre 1318. Many different beer brands and regularly live bands.

5 El Pony Pisador, Bartolomé Mitre 1000 (corner of Buenos Aires), ☏ +598 2915 7470. A bar/club that also has regular live music performances.

6 Bar Valentin Pub Rock, Bartolomé Mitre 1322. In daytime it is a bar, but later in the evening it becomes a disco.

7 Baar Fun Fun, Soriano 922 (near Teatro Solis), ☏ +598 2915 8005. This classic tango bar is one of the oldest bars in Montevideo, 100 years old. Many famous tango artists have played here. Weekend nights there are live performances, which means that there is an entrance fee. Both the atmosphere and the clientele of this bar is a combination of old and young. There's both indoor and outdoor seating (the latter is open in the winter too). Try the house specialty Uvita, a drink of grenache wine and port wine.

8 La Bodeguita del Sur, Soriano 840, ☏ +598 99 009 465. 23:00-late. Basically a dancing school and a bar. Here you can have a drink, dance or learn to dance - both salsa and other dances.

9 La Casa de Becho, Nueva York 1415. If you like candombe music, this is a place to go to. It is also where the composer Gerardo Matos Rodriguez wrote one of the world's most famous tango songs, "La Cumparsita" about century ago.

10 Nueva York, Piedras 292 (corner of Colón and Cerrito), ☏ +598 2915 2204. Sympathetic bar in the old town. Good place to enjoy tapas and chivitos and a beer. It's open both in the day and until late at night.

11 El Milongón, Gaboto 1810, ☏ +598 2924 8535. A place with typical Uruguayan dance and music, like tango and candombe.

12 El Clasico Futbol 5 (Futbol 5 Montevideo), Dr. Alejandro Gallinal 2014 (Malvin neighborhood), ☏ +598 91918435. This snack bar on El Clasico Futbol 5 is a good place to drink and eat something after…

Many hotels in central Montevideo are dated and badly maintained, but this does not apply to all hotels there. The ones near Plaza Independencia are of high standard and popular among foreign dignitaries. Districts to find good hotels include Parque Rodó, Punta Carretas, Pocitos, Buceo, Punta Gorda and Carrasco.

In Uruguay it is not uncommon that hotel rooms are priced in American dollars.

Budget

If you're traveling on a shoestring it's advisable to pick hostels or hotels that are simpler equipped but better located and cheaper. Hostels generally do not have private rooms, only dormitories. Usually, cooking and washing facilities are available and wifi is included; some hostels also have computers with Internet access and a TV room.

1 Hotel Arapey, Ave Uruguay 925, ☏ +598 2 900-7032. Rambling art deco relic with large rooms and linens as old as the building. Private bath, fans, TVs, elevator. single: US$32, double: US$38.

2 Punto Berro Hostel Old Town, Ituzaingó 1436, ☏ +598 2914 8600. Near the historical heart of the city and in the middle of Montevideo’s nightlife. Free breakfast, Internet, kitchen access. Dorms from US$11..

3 Spléndido Hotel, Bartolome Mitre 1314, ☏ +598 2 916-4900. Rumor has it that this hotel was built by a former president at the turn of the 20th century for his mistress. The hotel is near the Plaza de Independencia and the Teatro Solis. Many of the best restaurants, music, bars, and sightseeing spots are literally within a few steps of the front door. Prices from US$11-38.

4 Destino26, 26 de Marzo 1125, ☏ +598 2707 6041, [email protected]. Friendly hostel in Pocitos with free breakfast and wifi, a lounge with a shared computer and TV, and a fully equipped kitchen. Dorms from US$18. (updated Aug 2017)

5 Ukelele Hostel, Maldonado 1183, ☏ +598 2902 78 44, [email protected]. Dorms from US$14 in the low season, US$18 in the high season. (updated Sep 2017)

Mid-range

6 Ibis Montevideo Rambla, Calle La Cumparsita 1473, ☏ +598 2 413-7000, fax: +598 2 4136245, [email protected]. A 5-minute walk from the old town, this chain hotel has simple but comfortable rooms and is bookable over the Internet.

7 Radisson Montevideo Victoria Plaza Hotel, Plaza Independencia 759, ☏ +598 2 902-0111, fax: +598 2 902-1628, [email protected]. Hotel in the heart of Montevideo's financial and commercial district. Features include a pool, gym, high-speed Internet, and views of the city from the Restaurant Arcadia on the 25th floor.

8 Cottage, Miraflores 1360, ☏ +598-2 600-7114. New and comfortable hotel near Carrasco Casino.

9 Hotel Iberia, Maldonado 1097, ☏ +598-2 901 3633.

10 Gema, Roque Graseras 644, ☏ +598 2716 3171, [email protected]. 29-room hotel a few blocks from the beach in the trendy Punta Carretas neighborhood. A good choice for Orthodox Jewish travellers, with a tasty kosher breakfast, information about local synagogues, and arrangements for observing the Sabbath. From US$55. (updated Aug 2017)

11 Apart Hotel Universitas, 8 de Octubre 2481, ☏ +598 2 4875 353, [email protected]. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. 11-story hotel with suites including mini-kitchens. Free buffet breakfast including hot food and cakes. It's a block and a half from Tres Cruces bus terminal. (updated Oct 2017)

Security

Montevideo used to be safer before, however it is still a safe city compared to e.g. Brazilian cities. Pickpocketing occurs downtown so backpacks and handbags should preferably be worn so that you can see them. Robberies are known to happen, including "smash and grab" attacks where the robber smashes a car window, grabs a bag or other item from the seat, and runs.

The most secure neighbourhoods, according to a report from a realtor magazine, are Buceo, Pocitos, Punta Carretas and Parque Rodó, followed by Colón, the downtown, Sayago and Conciliación.

The old town outside the pedestrian area is considered dangerous after dark. This also applies to the beach promenade outside the old town. In the daytime there are frequent police patrols on old town's streets and many establishments have security guards standing outside the door. In the summer the beaches of Ramírez and Pocitos should be avoided at nighttime.

If you are an obvious foreigner you are more frequently targeted by beggars. However they aren't violent. Near attractions there are often people presenting themselves as "keepers" that allegedly will look after your parked car for a fee. Unlike in other places they reportedly don't ask for payment in advance and don't behave in an intimidating way.

Tourists are advised not to visit certain peripheral suburb neighbourhoods known for being sources of insecurity, such as 40 semanas, Barrio Borro, or the outskirts of Casabó. Although some of them are not slums at all, the level of crimes is higher than the downtown or the suburbs. The Cerro district west of the bay, famous for its fort, is also reportedly one of the districts you should not be wandering around in as a tourist and absolutely not alone, specially at night.

The police can be called by dialing 911.

Drugs

Like elsewhere in Uruguay, driving with any blood alcohol level greater than 0 is prohibited. Do not drive under the effects of alcohol. Also in Montevideo as well as the rest of the country, smoking is prohibited in public enclosed spaces. Violation of this policy may carry fines.

Regarding the legality of marijuana, possession for personal use is not penalized if it concerns minor quantities (a few grams). Possession of major quantities is illegal and punishable by law. Remember that the legalization of this drug in 2013 as for the personal use (medicinal or recreational), sale or storage of the plant (~480 grams per year) is only for Uruguayan citizens of 18 years and above (natural or legal citizenship) with legal capacity. Likewise with alcohol, driving under the influence of marijuana is not allowed, and such breach may carry a fine.