Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires means fair winds, or literally good airs, in Spanish. The official name is Ciudad Autónoma de Buenos Aires (CABA; "Autonomous City of Buenos Aires"), and it's also called the Capital Federal ("Federal Capital"), to distinguish it from the neighboring Buenos Aires Province. It is one of the largest cities in Latin America, with many cultural offerings, and is the point of departure for traveling to the rest of the country. People from Buenos Aires are called porteños, meaning "people from the port" as Buenos Aires was founded as a port city to fend off pirates and other enemies. Buenos Aires is an open and welcoming destination that allows the traveller not only to visit the city but also have an exceptional urban adventure.

The city is geographically contained inside the province of Buenos Aires but is autonomous politically.

The city extends across a plain covering 19.4 km (12.1 mi) from north to south and 17.9 km (11.1 mi) from east to west.

About three million people live in the City of Buenos Aires (the Federal Capital of Argentina with 202 km2 (78 sq mi). The city is divided into 48 districts or barrios (neighbourhoods). Together with its metropolitan area called Great Buenos Aires (Gran Buenos Aires), it is in the top 30 of most populated urban conurbations in the world with over 15 million people. The majority of Argentina's economic activity is concentrated in this single city and its surroundings.

Buenos Aires always receives tourists from all over the world and offers a wide choice of cultural events, nightlife, restaurants and bars, for which you can expect good service.

Buenos Aires has one of Latin America's biggest LGBT communities. There is a receptive attitude towards LGBT culture in the city. Same-sex marriages are legally performed and recognized in Argentina. There are many LGBT oriented businesses based in the city which extend to the tourism industry. For example, there are travel agents, various classes and nightlife events as well as accommodation catered to LGBT travellers. There are gay cruise ships and even a gay five-star hotel.

Climate

Buenos Aires enjoys a temperate climate with 4 distinct seasons. Because it is located near the coast, extreme heat and cold are rare and the weather allows the city to be visited throughout the year. Winters are cold though frosts are rare. Though daytime temperatures are mild, nights are much cold…

By plane

Three airports serve the metropolitan area. When searching for flights, the airport code (BUE IATA) can be used to search all airports serving Buenos Aires.

The main airport for international flights to and from Buenos Aires is Ezeiza International Airport (EZE IATA), about 35 km south of the city center.

Most domestic flights use Aeroparque Jorge Newbery Airport (AEP IATA), a short distance from downtown Buenos Aires. Flight information for Ezeiza International Airport and Aeroparque Jorge Newbery is available in English and Spanish at ☏ +54 11 54806111 or the aa2000.com.ar website. Buenos Aires also has several small airports dedicated to chartered flights and private aircraft.

The El Palomar Airport (EPA IATA) is a smaller airport located 18km west of the city. It offers a limited range of domestic flights.

Domestic flights from Buenos Aires to the rest of Argentina are usually more expensive for foreigners than for Argentinians. This can pose a problem for short-term travellers who do not have time to take a bus to places like Iguazu Falls, Bariloche and Ushuaia. These travellers are often advised to find smaller travel companies or agents that can help find lower prices or deals that larger online travel sites would not have access to.

People from other nationalities must pay a reciprocity fee on arrival at Ezeiza. The amount depends on how much the country of origin charged for Argentinians to enter that country.

Ezeiza International Airport

1 Ezeiza International Airport (referred to as Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini / Minister Pistarini International Airport EZE IATA) (located in Ezeiza, Buenos Aires Province, about 30–45 minutes from downtown Buenos Aires by car). Planes fly from and to most countries in the Americas and Europe. Ezeiza is a modern airport with good services such as ATMs, restaurants, free (but slow) Wi-Fi and duty-free shops. For being the main airport in a metropolitan area of 14 million people, it is surprisingly compact.

To Ezeiza International Airport, count about an hour by car (more if huge traffic jams, which are not rare, particularly on Fridays or if it's raining). If you want something cheaper, there are private coach and public transport connections.

Aeroparque Jorge Newbery

2 Aeroparque Jorge Newbery airport (referred to as Aeroparque, the Spanish for Airpark/Airfield AEP IATA), Ave. Rafael Obligado (20 min away from the downtown area by car. You can take a taxi (AR$160) or bus from there.), ☏ +54 4576-5300 (extension 107/122 Information: 4576-1111). The smaller airport, used by most domestic flights. (updated Mar 2018)

Served by Aerolineas Aregentinas and JetSmart.

In Aeroparque, there are 2 ATMs. There is also a tiny change office, with a huge queue. Free (but very slow) Wi-Fi in the departure zone.

For budget-conscious travellers, regular bus line 33 stops a few metres from the main gate at Av. Costanera Rafael Obligado and goes to Retiro-Plaza de Mayo-San Telmo. New in December 2023, some branches of the bus line 8 also connect Aeroparque with Retiro and onwards. The fees are very low (<$AR2000), but you need a SUBE card or contactless credit.

By train

Long-distance trains are slowly returning to Argentina, but they are yet few in numbers and limited compared to the by inter-city bus network. There are no international services but using domestic tr…

The public transport in Buenos Aires is very good by coverage, although public transport in Buenos Aires isn't world-class (compared to the counterparts in Europe and East Asia) and it can be crowded during rush hour and the bus network can be confusingly complex. The metro (or underground railway) here is called the "Subte", which is short for Subterraneo (underground). The network itself is not very large, but reaches most tourist attractions of the city, and there is a large range of bus routes and several suburban railways used by commuters. Trains, subte and bus are most easily paid for with a SUBE card or contactless credit card. The SUBE card is a magnetic card that you can buy at kioscos, some newsstands, and at every subway station. It will have no credit when you buy it, but you can charge with money in train/subway stations or kioscos (grocery shops) equipped with the relevant machine (they will likely have a SUBE logo on display). One card can be shared by any number of people since it is used only once, upon entering the transport (except on trains, where every passenger needs its own card). The card is also used in many other cities (e.g. Bariloche), so don't throw it away when you leave Buenos Aires, as your balance can be used elsewhere.

Since February 2018, a multimodal system has been implemented in which increasing discounts are applied to the fare when doing connections, regardless of the chosen method of transportation. The second trip will receive a 50% discount, the third trip will have a 75% discount and so on, up to 5 trips within the lapse of 2 hours.

Some electronic resources can help you find bus routes : the websites ComoViajo and CómoLlego (official and the most reliable app for Buenos Aires), or the iPhone App miTinerario . Google Maps Transit isn't always accurate when it comes to buses and many important lines are notably absent.

Finding your way around is relatively easy. Most of the city grid is divided into equal squares with block numbers in the hundreds, using a grid system similar to Manhattan, New York. Most streets are one way with the adjacent parallels going the other way, so beware that the bus or taxi won't follow the same route back. If travelling by taxi, tell the driver the street and block number, e.g. "Santa Fe 2100"; or two intersecting streets, e.g. "Corrientes y Callao".

City maps are issued by many different publishers (Guía T, LUMI) and the local tourist authority. They are indispensable for those wanting to use public transportation, since they include all bus routes. As always, check towards which direction the map is pointing, because some maps are bottom up (South on the top of the map). This is true for the maps at the official taxi booth at Ezeiza airport.

On foot

Walking is a great way to get around Buenos Aires during the day. With the grid system it is relatively easy to get around and because of the traffic it may even be quicker than a taxi or bus. The larger avenidas are lined with shops so there is plenty to see. In the Micro centro calle Florida is a pedestrian shopping street where you can walk from Plaza San Martin to Avenida de Mayo near the Plaza de Mayo. It crosses Lavalle (also pedestrian only) which takes you to the Plaza de la Republica and the Obelisk. For safety reasons do not walk to La Boca; take a bus or taxi instead.

Individual listings can be found in Buenos Aires's district articles

Buenos Aires is a big city, so check the districts section for detailed listings.

If you are a fan of walking in green open spaces and parks in big cities like Buenos Aires, be sure not to miss a promenade in Palermo, a beautiful area in the northern part of the city. Here you will find not only open spaces to walk in but also a large lake where you can rent paddle boats and a huge flower garden that is free to enter! Although the Japanese and the botanical gardens and the surroundings are very nice, they are also very noisy as several major roads traverse the area. For a quiet, shady walk or jog head to the golf course north of the railway tracks.

Another great place to walk along and experience Argentine street life is El Puerto de Buenos Aires. Its personality however is quite contrasting during the day and during the night.

La Boca has the Caminito pedestrian street with arts and crafts. There is also a river cruise you can take from there where you can see a huge picturesque metal structure across the river. You can try to catch a rowboat to Avellaneda on the other side of the water for AR$0.50, but you will have to try your luck as the rower may not allow you on citing that its dangerous. La Boca is famous for Tango and you can often catch glimpses of Tango dancers practicing in the streets. If you fancy having a picture taking with a tango dancer you can but expect to pay a small fee. In addition to tango, La Boca is famous for its football, and you can take a tour of the La Bombonera Stadium where the buildings are painted in bright colors.

The prices for almost everything in La Boca tend to be 2 to 3 times higher compared to the rest of the city. It's very touristy since it is an enjoyable place with some authentic Argentine sights. La Boca is probably best to be enjoyed during the day when the streets are crowded and there are other tourists around, it is generally advised to be avoided at night.

There is no Subte to La Boca, but many buses go there.

Remembrance park (Spanish: Parque de la memoria) a public space that is situated in front of the Río de la Plata estuary in the northern end of the Belgrano section of Buenos Aires. It is a memorial to the victims of the 1976–83 military regime during the Dirty War...pack some sandwiches and perhaps something stronger to relax on the hillside (and watch the planes landing overhead at the airport nearby) contemplating things after learning more about this tragic yet important part of Argentina's history that is a must visit for any visitor.

The Cementerio de la Recoleta: This is where all the rich families in Buenos Aires have their final resting places. Expect to see big ornate tombs. Be sure to visit the tomb of Eva Perón, the daughter of an aristocrat and beloved First Lady who, despite having the most visited tomb in the cemetery, is considered by many to be too close toward the people for eternal interment in Recoleta.

The Palermo Viejo district: This is a trendy neighborhood with charming cobblestone streets, bookstores, bars, and boutiques; definitely better than the touristy San Telmo area for a nighttime excursion. The Palermo station, on D line, is the closest metro stop.

Individual listings can be found in Buenos Aires's district articles

Football games

Argentina has a renowned football reputation and the sport is big throughout the whole country including of course, Buenos Aires. The capital is the home town of two of the most appreciated football teams in the world, Boca Juniors (which resides in Boca) and River Plate (Núñez). A game between these two legendary teams is called the "Superclásico". This is by far the hottest ticket in the city and one of the most intense rivalries in the world, with violent confrontations between the fans being a regular occurrence, sometimes even resulting in fatalities. It is often necessary to buy tickets well in advance.

Also, the Argentine National Team is very, very popular. Tickets to their World Cup Qualifying matches can be difficult to come by, involve waiting in very long lines, and should be ordered in advance for more convenience.

Argentinian fans are known for their passion and the songs (which are practically love songs) which they sing to their teams. Even if you are not a huge football fan, going to a game is definitely worth it just to take in the atmosphere and to observe the fans singing and cheering. While this is an experience you don't want to miss while visiting Buenos Aires, it can also be dangerous for tourists to go on their own depending on the stadium.

Tourists are often advised to go with large, organized groups such as LandingPadBA with bilingual guides, in particular to a Boca Juniors game. This ensures that you can watch the game in peace and still have a great time. If you want to see a match on your own, the best choice is to see River Plate, in the rich northern suburb of Belgrano. Best to purchase a (more expensive, ~AR$900, 2018) Plateas (grandstand) ticket rather than being in the Populars (terraces, ~AR$350 prices, 2018).

In the Plateas you can safely take your camera and enjoy the show. Go with a friend or someone local you trust who knows not only the area but also supports the local side and is familiar with the way things operate on match day.

Purchase tickets in advance or through a friend if they are a member of the club or supporters' section, also known as a socio. Often tickets are mainly sold out for the big times, but you can sometimes find them on sale on match day for teams like Racing, and as the ticket prices have risen only matches rarely sell out (except the above-mentioned Superclásico).

Tango

A trip to Buenos Aires is not complete without some sort of experience of the Tango, the national dance of Argentina. A good place to go and watch some authentic Tango is at the Confitería Ideal Suipacha 384 (just off of Corrientes, near Calle Florida). However Tango is best experienced not in La Boca and on Calle Florida, but in the Milongas. A milonga is both a place where a Tango dance will take place, as well as a specific type of tango dance.

Milongas take place either during the day or late at night. "Matinée Milongas" usually start in the early afternoon and go until 20:00-22:00. They are popular with tourists who may struggle staying up until 05:00 every night. Inside a milonga, you will find many locals who will be more than willing to show you how to dance. The night Milongas start at around 23:00, but don't fill up until around 01:30. They may go on until 05:00 or 06:00. Some Milongas to note are: Salon Canning, El Beso and Porteño y Bailarin.

Individual listings can be found in Buenos Aires's district articles

While the primary food consumed by Argentinians is beef, there are other options in this cosmopolitan city. Italian food is pervasive but in neighborhoods like Palermo, pizza joints are seeing heavy competition from sushi, fusion, and even vegetarian bistros. Just about everything can be delivered - including fantastic, gourmet helado (ice cream).

Meat

You will want to try asado (beef/steak barbecue) at a parrilla, restaurants specializing in roasted meats. There are expensive parrillas, and more simple and cost effective ones, In either case you will likely have some of the best "meat" you have ever tasted. The bife de lomo (tenderloin) is unbelievably tender.

As a matter in fact, the first regular refrigerator ship is the Steamers Le Frigorifique and Paraguay, that carried frozen mutton from Argentina to France.

Jugoso means rare (literally "juicy"), however the Argentine concept of rare is very different from that of someone from the States (perhaps it's a tourist thing, but an American ordering rare is likely to get something between medium well and hockey puck). Argentines cook their meat all the way through, and they can only get away with this method because the meat is so tender that cooking it well does not necessarily mean it's shoe leather.

For Westerners, don't be afraid to order "azul" ("blue"), you will not get a blue steak, more like an American Medium Rare. If you like your meat "bloody", or practically "still walking" it might pay to learn words like "sangre" ("blood"), or to make statements like "me gusta la sangre" ("I like the blood"). Don't be afraid to spend two minutes stressing how rare you want your steak to your waiter- this is something no one talks about in guidebooks but every other American and Brit once you arrive will tell you the same thing, if you want it rare, you have to explain exactly how rare.

Only the most old school parrillas (grills) don't offer at least one or two pasta dishes and pizza is everywhere.

Parrilla Tour Buenos Aires leads walking tours around different neighborhoods of classic parrillas. During the tour, participants stop and sample traditional foods at 4 restaurants, 3 parrillas (steakhouses) and an artisanal ice cream shop, as well as learn about the history and culture around Argentine cuisine. The stops chosen tend to be hole-in-the-wall, locals only, establishments not in guidebooks.

Pizza

Italian and Spanish food are almost native here, as the cultural heritage heralds in great part from these two countries. Other popular meals are pizzas and empanadas (small pastries stuffed with a combination of cheese and meats). They are a popular home delivery or takeaway/takeout option.

Pizza is a strong tradition in Buenos Aires. It comes al molde (cooked in a pan, usually medium to thick crust), a la piedra (baked in a stone oven, usually thin to medium crust), and a la parilla (cooked on a parilla grill, very thin, crispy crust). Best places: "Los Inmortales", "Las Cuartetas", "Guerrín", ·El Cuartito", "Banchero's", "Kentucky".

"El Cuartito" in Recoleta has a delicious "Fugazzeta rellena" pizza. This restaurant can be packed with families and friends even at midnight.

Individual listings can be found in Buenos Aires's district articles

The main areas to go out are: Puerto Madero, close to the Casa Rosada. Safe during the day and night, due the obvious reason (Casa Rosada). At Recoleta area (close to the famous cemetery) there are also plenty of restaurants, bars and a cinema complex. This area used to be trendy but it is now mainly for tourists. Palermo SoHo and Palermo Hollywood are full of trendy stores, restaurants, and young and trendy bars. Palermo Las Cañitas is another nice area close to the Polo stadium. Also, San Telmo has a very bohemian, and very fun, nightlife scene. Buenos Aires has a popular cafe culture.

Confiteria Ideal, Suipacha 384. Ancient, authentic and full of character. (updated Nov 2017)

Clubbing

Buenos Aires has a great variety of clubs and discos that are open until late hours (06:00 or 07:00) and bars that stay open 24 hours a day. Have in mind that at closing times the streets will be swarmed with people trying to get home, so it isn't easy to get a taxi and the public transportation will be very busy.

Young teens are used to staying out and by-passing the little security, so be cautious when engaging girls in provocative clothing. They might try to hit off with foreigners as part of a dare with their friends. The famous Palermo Barrios (SoHo, Hollywood, Las Cañitas or simply "PalVo") have many hip restaurants that turn into bars as it gets later.

Late Night Tango Late night tango shows are also very popular among tourists and locals alike. They often include dinner, a great show, dance lessons, and a few complimentary drinks. The dancers are all professionals and bent on putting in their best shows every single night. These shows start around dinner time, but can go well into the night. They can be a great starting block for the rest of your crazy night in Buenos Aires.

Rock concerts

Buenos Aires has a tradition of rock concerts going on all the time. Most of the time top international artist include several dates on their tour in Buenos Aires. Football stadiums are frequently used for the concerts.

Buenos Aires rock fans often claim to be the "best crowd in the world" and this claim is echoed by a number of international acts, including Foo Fighters and AC/DC (who in 2009 released a live DVD of 3 sold-out concerts, called Live at River Plate). They constantly jump, sing as loud as possible, do Pogos (they usually push each other while jumping following the music, but it's not a kind of violence, it's a friendly and common thing), they also do Moshpits, and sometimes, Walls of death. If you're not accustomed to this, don't try to get to the front row because there is where it happens. People don't stop for a second not even to take pictures.

Fans also go to the airport to receive artists and give them gifts, take pictures and ask them for sign things. They follow them to their car or van and sometimes they even follow it. Argentina and especially Buenos Aires have long had a thriving local rock scene, known as "Rock Nacional", which has produced numerous bands which have achieved popularity throughout Latin America.

Individual listings can be found in Buenos Aires's district articles

You will be able to find a good selection of budget and mid-range options as well as more luxurious and expensive hotels. Accommodation is scattered around the city; some areas to look in include:

Centro - There are budget hotels and hostels in San Telmo on the edge of downtown. In addition, lots of foreign travelers prefer to stay at hotels in Puerto Madero, the most secure area of the city, such as the Hilton.

North - chic high-end boutique hotels, and the four-star and up crowd including the Park Hyatt.

There are hundred of apartments, ranging from economy to deluxe, and the prices are very good. As well as going through an agency keep an eye and an ear out for individuals who rent their upscale apartments by the day, week, or month. Many times these apartments are three times the size of a hotel at half the price.

There are many short-term rental agents in Buenos Aires (an online search will bring up most of them). However the availability calendars can be misleading, since the apartments are often advertised by multiple agents and these agents don't communicate with each other. Photos can also be misleading and street noise can ruin an otherwise beautiful apartment so do some research off and on the field before signing up. If you are flexible on the area it may be better to wait until you arrive before looking. It is also easier to negotiate discounts face-to-face.

For budget accommodation there is an enormous number (more than 150) of hostels. In the more famous hostels, booking in advance might be necessary, but you'll always find a dorm bed if you need it. There are several budget hotels where you can get your own room for no more than AR$55-75 per night. You will not find them advertised on the internet. They can be hard to find, but there are many. Walk down Avenida de Mayo near Café Tortoni. Start from Avenida 9 de Julio (the giant, wide one) and make your way towards the Plaza de Mayo. Look on the small side streets plus or minus two blocks and you will find many of these places.

Unlike most South American cities, the better Buenos Aires hostels will be fully booked at weekends. You can always find something, but if you want a specific hostel, book in advance.

The stylish and Bohemian Palermo Soho and Palermo Viejo neighborhoods are home to some of the trendiest small boutique hotels in Buenos Aires. These hotels offer the amenities of their larger international chain counterparts, plus a more personal style of service, often at a fraction of the cost.

Emergency numbers

General Emergencies Line - Toll free call 911

Emergency - Ambulance emergency service SAME (Immediate Health Emergency Service), Toll free call. 107

Tourist Ombudsman - Communicate with the Tourist Ombudsman, phone number: ☏ +54 11 4302 7816. To contact personally, can go to Ave. Pedro de Mendoza 1835 ("Benito Quinquela Martin" Museum) in the neighborhood of La Boca. Daily 10:00-18:00.

Tourist Police Station - Corrientes 436. ☏ 0800 999 5000 (in country only)Country code missing/☏ +54 11 4346 5748 ([email protected]). Provides information in English, Italian, French, Portuguese, and Ukrainian.

Crime

Most people travel in Buenos Aires without any incident. Nevertheless, as with any large city, like in Europe, crime is an issue for tourists and residents alike. Conduct yourself intelligently as you would in any large city.

The most frequent incidents of crime involve pick-pocketing, distraction theft, and bag snatching. Distraction thefts commonly occur in public areas such as internet cafes, train stations, and bus stations. You should keep a close eye on your personal possessions and bags at all times, which is also why many inhabitants wear their backpack in front of them. In some public spaces you will find that chairs with webbing and clips to clip to your bag or purse to the chair. An aid in avoiding problems is, dress to blend in and avoid carrying lots of items. It safer to travel just the bare necessities in your front pocket. While using public transportation or walking around common sense should be used.

In a common scam one person sprays something on the victim like hand cream, mustard or the like. Another person tries to help the victim. There can be several people at once working in coordination. The object is to distract you from your belongings and, in the chaos, steal from you. Avoiding confrontation is their object so do the same. Ignore their 'help', just focus on your belongings and extracting yourself from the scene.

Another common occurrence is the slitting of handbags in crowded places. Be particularly attentive in popular tourist areas, such as San Telmo. You should avoid carrying large amounts of cash or wearing ostentatious jewelry.

If a woman (or even a man) apparently normally calls you on the street to see an "apresentación" and earn massage girls for free, without commitment, the first time, do not pay attention and leave! In fact, they are agents of brothels. Once taken "inside", they do not let you out, physically preventing you, until they disburse a large sum of money. This type of scam is relatively common in the center, especially in Corrientes Avenue, Florida Street, and Lavalle Avenue.

The dangers of hailing a taxi has received lots of press but is not common. Petty crime continues (like taking indirect routes or incorrect changes during payment). Taxicabs that loiter in front of popular tourist destinations like the National Museum are looking for tourists, and some of these drivers are less honest than others. Do things like the locals would be a good choice, like stopping a cab a block or two away on a typical city street. Alternatively, Uber is widely available, although you can expect a 5-10 minute wait while the driver locates you and picks you up.