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International · Colombia

Bogotá

48 min read · flights from US$ 163.33

Bogotá, officially Bogotá D.C, is the capital of Colombia. One of the world's mega-cities, Bogotá is a global center for finance, politics, culture, shopping, media, and entertainment. The city is a vibrant metropolis with thousands of things to do, see, and discover, including world-class museums and restaurants, glittering skyscrapers and vast financial centers, 500-year-old mansions, palaces, and historic churches. There are over 75 performing arts venues spread throughout the city, including the renowned Teatro Colon. For those who love outdoor activities, Bogotá is home to the Parque Metropolitano Simon Bolivar, the largest urban park in the Americas, and has over 500 km of urban bike paths. The city is always awake, always alive, and most of all, always full of energy.

About the destination

With a population of 15 million people, Bogota DC sits approximately 2,640 m (8,660 feet) above sea level in the Colombian Andes region. Its climate is cool year-round. Orientation is relatively easy, as the mountains located in the eastern parts of the city, are generally visible from most parts of the city.

Aside from being one of Latin America's great capital cities, Bogota is also one of the most modern, multicultural, and cosmopolitan cities on Earth. To understand the sheer size of this vast metropolis, consider that Mexico City and New York City are the only North American cities larger than the capital district. Bogota is the second most populous Spanish speaking city in the World and the fifth largest metropolitan area in the Western hemisphere.

Bogota is a city of many layers, and as such it offers a one-of-a-kind experience to its visitors. Described by the New York Times as one of the world's “greatest cities”', prepare to find a hectic balance between the new and the old; the avant-garde, the modern, and the historic. Encounter 500-year-old plazas overshadowed by towering skyscrapers. Find peaceful tree-lined bicycle routes running through the center dividers of 8-lane avenues. From internationally recognized universities and educational institutions to being one of the globe's leading financial, political, and cultural capitals, Bogota houses an endless number of museums, public parks, and cultural activities. Being the global and regional seat of hundreds of multinational companies, Bogotá is one of the planet's official capitals for business dealings. The city's exposure to European, North American, Middle-Eastern, and Asian influences, brought about by immigrants who came to the city from various parts of the world, ensures that anything from traditional dishes to a renowned steak or sushi restaurant can be found.

The capital district isn't just a city, it's a world within a city. Its Festivals and public parks have earned Bogota international medals and prizes (Such as the UNESCO world city of culture), its museums and cultural institutions including the world's largest gold museum and one of the largest performing arts centers in the western hemisphere, have earned it the name "The Athens of South America''. The city's ability to create and innovate, as well as to implement technological solutions to global problems have brought Bogota inte…

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Getting there

By plane

The city is served by 1 El Dorado International Airport (BOG IATA) (~20 minutes from downtown in a taxi), with a lot of airlines to many destinations.

Domestic flights are served by many airlines including Avianca (main Colombian airline), LATAM, Wingo, Satena and EasyFly. Domestic flights of Avianca are served from the Puente Aéreo terminal, next to El Dorado terminal, and features WiFi access to the Internet from almost every location. There are more than 20 daily flights from the 2 airports in Medellín, over 15 daily flights from Cali and more than 10 from Cartagena. Domestic flights to Bogotá are among the 50 busiest flight routes on earth and heavy competition can net you cheap fares. Taxis are regulated, reasonably priced and safe from the airport. El Dorado is also the third busiest airport in Latin America and the largest by cargo movement.

To get out from the airport into the city there are a couple of options:

Regulated taxis. You first have to search for a stand where you will have to point out your destination and then they will print out a ticket indicating the price you will have pay. Then, pick up a taxi from the line and explain to the driver your destination. At the end of the journey you will have to pay only what is printed out in the ticket.

Transmilenio. You can only use the bus system if you have small luggage - you might not be allowed into the stations if you are carrying big suitcases. To get out the airport without having the public transport card, take the bus line "16-14". It's a green bus that brings you for free to the bus station "Portal El Dorado". There buy the Tullave card before going through the turnstile. People with Transmilenio or blue SITP jackets are ready to help (although most of them do not speak English - bring your Spanish phrasebook or use Google Translate). The bus station has WiFi. A lot of bus lines depart from that bus station, you may be able to reach your destination in Bogota with a direct connection.

By bus

The safety of bus travel in Colombia has greatly improved. However, foreigners should be cautious not to travel to areas of unrest and travel only during the day. Do not carry large amounts of cash with you as robberies are known to occur along some routes. Service in the 'upscale' buses are very good and they are very comfortable. Pick the most expensive service (just a couple of dollars extra) as these buses tend to be newer and in better mechanical condition.

Buses run in and out of Bogotá's main station, 2 El Terminal de Transporte de Bogotá (Terminal Salitre). The station is clean and has standard amenities. Located at Dg 23, No 69-59, several bus companies have regular routes to destinations around the country. To get there from the airport, you can take a short taxi ride.

Take into consideration that most of the restaurants serving within the terminal can be expensive by Colombian standards, but well served. In case of need, it may be advisable to order a dish for 2 people or just to check places around the station.

The Terminal is divided in several color-coded areas that indicate the destinations to which companies in that area travel to: Yellow = South, Blue = East and West, Red = North and International, Purple = Arrivals.

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Getting around

By e-hailing

InDrive, Uber, Cabify and Didi cover the city. As of November 2015, Uber rides can take a while to reach you, particularly if you are in the La Candelaria area. You can also use Uber app to hail a taxi. Note that while rideshare apps are commonly used, they are officially illegal in Colombia, so drivers can be hesitant to drive to places where they may be hassled by police (e.g. bus stations). Drivers may ask you to sit in front so that you appear to be a "friend" of the driver instead of taking a passenger for profit through a ride-hailing app.

By taxi

While ubiquitous and affordable – the local yellow taxis are arguably the most visible representative to the world of Bogotá's worst side. Travelers used to being cheated by taxi drivers probably aren't yet acquainted with the paseo millionario, or "Millionaire Ride," where a taxi driver swings by to pick up well-armed accomplices who then rob you, possibly drug you, and almost certainly take you to multiple ATMs to forcibly withdraw a large sums of money. This rather extreme practice is actually pretty common. Taxis should not be hailed off the street—only called through dispatch. Nice restaurants and any place of lodging will be happy to do this for you, and will express genuine concern if they think you are going to try to hail one. Otherwise, call one yourself at 599-9999, 311-1111 or 411-1111. Sometimes it can take a while to get one, though, so it's good to have a back up. If public transit isn't your thing, consider keeping a private car service on hand. They are pretty good deal for the money, when all is considered, and your hotel or business should be able to recommend one.

If calling for a taxi, the driver will want to confirm that it is you who called by asking for a "clave" (key), which is always the last two digits of the phone from which you called to request the taxi. Each taxi has a meter which should increment one tick every 1/10 km or 30 seconds and starts at 25 ticks. The rate chart is printed on a card in the taxi. Nearly all taxi drivers will try to take advantage of you in one way or another; be sure the taxi meter is started when you begin your trip. Tipping is never necessary—be sure to count your change and be on the lookout for both counterfeit coins and notes. There are surcharges for the airport, holidays, and nights (after 8PM). Surcharge details are printed on the fare card. There is a surcharge for ordering a taxi arriving at your house and one for after 8PM, even if you are starting your trip before that time. Holidays and Sundays are also surcharged. Lock the doors of the taxi, especially after dark. If you experience a problem in a taxi or with the driver, dial 123 to report a complaint with the police. You should also call the company with which the taxi is registered.

Please note that English proficiency generally tends to be poor all across Colombia, including Bogotá, so have your hotel staff write the destination in Spanish before taking a taxi.

In other hand If you are interested in a more private and professional option, you can hire a Shuttle Service. This kind of services often have wide range of vehicles and can be paid by credit card so you won't have to worry about carrying cash all the time.

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What to see

Many landmark events in the history of Colombian and South American independence took place in La Candelaria, the historic mid-16th-century colonial neighborhood that hosts the national government, including the near killing and escape of Simon Bolivar, the execution of revolutionary heroine Policarpa Salavarrieta, known as 'La Pola,' and the Grito de Libertad, known as the beginning of the region's revolution. The district is teeming with history, and there are a lot of interesting museums (arguably the best being the Gold Museum and the Botero Museum) and old churches. Some of its lovely streets are pedestrian-only. The most important places are Catedral Primada and Palacio de Nariño on Plaza de Bolívar, Iglesia del Carmen, Biblioteca Luis A Arango, the Colonial Art Museum, and the colonial architecture of the houses and buildings. Almost all the museums are free. La Candelaria also contains numerous Catholic churches, many of them centuries-old. The Colombian-American and Colombian-French cultural centers are located in La Candelaria, and a Colombian-Spanish cultural center is under construction.

Outside La Candelaria, the most famous site is up the mountains over Santa Fé at the Sanctuary of Monserrate, which you can see from virtually any place in the city. Take the funicular up, or if you are feeling brave and athletic, hike it. Santa Fé also is home to the National Museum and the Modern Art Museum.

The northern neighborhoods that are so popular for dining and nightlife really don't have all that much to see, in terms of traditional sightseeing, aside from the small colonial center in Usaquén. The park known as Parque 93 is rather pretty, though.

There are a couple interesting sights in Ciudad Salitre, for those either staying out there or those with plenty of time, including the Botanical Gardens and the Maloka Science Center.

Downtown Day Tour

Popular among visitors are the historic Downtown and La Candelaria neighborhood. In fact most affordable lodging and dining options can be found this side of town making it highly desirable by low-budget travelers and backpackers, given its close location to many of the city's attractions. Start your way on Carrera Septima (7) and Calle 16, just arriving Parque Santander. Take the opportunity to visit the world famous Museo del Oro, or Gold Museum for its legendary El Dorado collections. Then continue south one block up to Avenida Jimenez and give your camera a workout at one of Bogota's most famous and historic intersections, where a couple of ancient churches and 19th century buildings collide. Turn east (towards the mountains) and walk up Avenida Jimenez alongside downtown's famous Eje Ambiental or Environmental Axis, which is a section of the avenue that has been closed off to vehicles except Transmilenio, to make way for a generous tree-lined pedestrian sidewalk and an enclosed water stream. Many historic and famous buildings are located alongside the Eje Ambiental, home to Bogota's most renowned and traditional companies like El Tiempo and the Bank of the Republic. A few blocks east just past the Parque de los Periodistas the Eje Ambiental starts bending northwise, so leave the axis and turn south instead via o…

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Things to do

Performances and festivals

On some Friday nights, parts of Avenida Septima are closed in the Centro and you can see all sorts of street performers, live music, magic shows, buy crafts and street food. If you don't mind crowds it's worth a visit.

Check out the Iberoamerican Theater Festival, the biggest theater festival in the world (occurs every two years during Easter Week).

Other activities

Catch a football (soccer) game at El Campin Stadium. Easily accessible by Transmillenio and with a capacity of 48,000 spectators, it hosts games for the Colombian international squad as well as for professional league home teams Millionarios and Santa Fe. Avoid the north and south section for these home games which are populated by rival supporter groups; instead get a ticket for the eastern or western wings.

Take a cab or Transmilenio to a working-class neighborhood in the southside. Sit down in a 'panaderia' (bakery), order a "colombiana" brand soda and some good bread. Sit down and breathe the environment of the regular Colombian. Don't narrow yourself to the upscale Norte. Since picking out one of these neighborhoods can be dangerous, the best ones to do so: Santa Isabel, 20 de Julio, The Tunal area.

Go to Parque Simon Bolivar and chill like rolos (Bogota citizens) do, walk around the city's biggest park or ride the train.

Ciclovía. Every Sunday and national holiday from 7AM-2PM, major avenues are closed to cars and thousands of people turn out to bike, skate, jog and walk. You can join on foot or by renting a bicycle in the Candelaria neighborhood with Bogotravel tours.

Sabana de Bogotá. Who would have imagined that there exists a fascinating natural wonder right in the heart of Bogotá? The wetlands of the Sabana (savannah) de Bogotá is where the rivers slow down a bit to rest on the plateau and “clean up” after flowing down from mountains. The water then continues to flow into the valleys to rejoin with the rivers below, including the Bogotá and Magdalena rivers.

Outside of Bogotá

Consider an excursion to Zipaquirá with its impressive Catedral de Sal. Shared or private guided tours can be booked in hotels/hostels or you can go there by bus or train.

Golf

The Bogotá altiplano hosts the highest concentration of golf courses in Colombia, with 10+ courses within an hour of the city. Notable courses include El Rincón de Cajicá (Robert Trent Jones Sr., hosts the annual PGA Tour Americas tournament), La Cima (approximately 3,000 m altitude, one of the highest courses in the world), Club Campestre de Bogotá, Briceño 18, and Serrezuela. The 2,500–3,000 m altitude reduces air density, extending ball-flight distance by approximately 10–15% — a frequent point of adjustment for visiting players. All courses are private clubs; tee-time access for visitors typically requires arrangement in advance through a tour operator or member introduction. Most courses include caddie service as standard; green fees for visitors typically run US$80–150 including caddie.

Where to eat

Bogotá's varied gastronomy includes Michelin-starred restaurants serving traditional and innovative Colombian dishes and other cuisines from all corners of the globe.

Local food

Arepas: Corn flour based pancakes, sometimes made with cheese or slightly salted.

Empanadas: The closest comparison would be pastries. These are popular all over South America, so generally each country/region has their own recipe. The filling usually consists of meat, potato, vegetables and rice wrapped in a corn flour crust.

Tamal: Usually eaten for breakfast. A mixture of meat, chicken, potato, vegetables and yellow corn wrapped in plantain leaves and then boiled. Should be accompanied by a large mug of hot chocolate.

Ajiaco: Traditional thick soup based on three kinds of potatoes, chicken, avocado, dairy cream, herbs, corn, among others, usually eaten for Christmas and other important festivals. Typically from the altiplano region, and considered the city's official dish.

Pizza and burgers. OK, can we really call these traditional Bogotá meals? One could surmise they're from here, seeing their omnipresence. The city does both quite well, and you just need to do a 360° turn to find some.

Casual dining

Options are many for casual dining, unsurprisingly for a Latin American city of seven million people. Bogotanos love food from all over, so you'll find a good mix of Colombian food, as well as cheap food from North America (especially pizza and burgers!) and Asia. Note that the Chinese food is almost always Colombianized, which can be pretty good anyway, but is almost never the real deal. Sushi is likewise easy to find, but usually of below-average quality. The clear exception is (upscale) Wok, which has several locations, and for a North American-price will serve you top-notch sushi and other authentic East and Southeast Asian dishes.

For lunch, definitely try a corrientazo—a small eatery that is only open for lunch, serving people on their lunch break a delicious full meal, with soup, fresh squeezed fruit juice, a meat dish, several starch offerings, and usually additional fruit on the side. You'll know corrientazos by their well-advertised and extremely limited menu, which often consists of only one available main course! Best options are usually traditional ajiaco, bandeja paisa, or fish. Sometimes the advertisement is just "almuerzo" (lunch) on a cardboard sign. Prices are astoundingly low. You can ask a local, where a corrientazo nearby is.

Rotisserie chicken is usually not far away, often called chicken "broaster," and is just fabulous. They'll pass you plastic gloves to wear while you eat it to keep your fingers clean.

If constant meat and starch isn't your thing, the more popular neighborhoods have lots of places just selling fruit and fruit juice/smoothies, often selling ice cream too. The fruit in Colombia is outstanding, and the juice bars are unbelievably cheap.

And there's always Crepes & Waffles, a ubiquitous Bogotá chain that—with such a focus—can't help but be great.

Restaurants

There are a few dedicated gourmet zones, the most impressive of which is Zona G (G for Gourmet). It's a quiet, residential-looking neighborhood jam packed with absolutely incredible, world-class restaurants. Other places to look for high-end dining are (naturally) the Zona Rosa, as well as Parque 93, the La Macarena neighborhood of Santa Fé, and a little further afield in Usaquén.

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Nightlife

Nightlife in Bogotá is very diverse, and you can almost certainly find whatever experience it is you are looking for. There are English pubs, Latin dance halls, electronic music clubs, quiet storefront bars, wacky themed clubs, salsa clubs, a huge indie-rock scene (if Cali is salsa, Bogotá is rock n' roll), megaclubs, cocktail lounges, etc.

The cosmopolitan side of Bogotá nightlife is overwhelmingly to be found in Zona Rosa and Bogotá/Parque 93. It's a little more spread out and sparse, but you'll find similar places in Chapinero Central, Usaquén, and even Santa Fé and La Candelaria. Chapinero Central and La Candelaria tend to be more bohemian/hipster/artsy/young. Chapinero is also the center of gay nightlife.

Where to stay

Because of the low temperatures at night you don't need air conditioning. If you are going to stay in Bogota, keep in mind the location; Most low-budget visitors choose to stay in La Candelaria, the colonial neighborhood in the center of the city. There are many cheap, nice hostels where you can meet travelers from all around the world. The historic district as well as all the major museums and some nightlife options are within walking distance. The deserted neighborhood streets are unsafe after dark on weeknights, though. Pressure from neighborhood groups to oust the remaining criminals has caused police presence to increase but you must always remain cautious. Check the location very carefully before you choose a place to stay, security is worse in the tiny deserted streets uphill and closer to Egypto neighborhood.

You'll find several hotels in the upscale northern districts like the Zona Rosa, Parque 93, as well as in Ciudad Salitre on the airport highway. Security won't be such an issue but prices are much higher. Nevertheless, you won't have any problem hailing a taxi at 6AM in the morning in the northern districts, because your hotel would be just around the corner from nightclub, or on the way to the airport. On the other hand, you can find low to medium priced hotels and hostels more expensive than La Candelaria's around downtown or near universities, especially in Chapinero Central.

Note than most hostels carry a strict no drugs due to the negative effects that these activities have on Colombians and their way of life. Cocaine use not only supports the violent conflict that has ravaged this country and this city, but also promotes the destruction of the Amazon Rainforest both through its production and subsequent eradication efforts. Child prostitution is also a current issue for many hostels and hotels who are fighting to prevent this from becoming a way of earning an income for young Colombians.

Stay safe

Bogotá is not at all as dangerous as it once was and as it may occasionally have been portrayed in certain movies. Its once high murder rate has dropped to exceedingly low levels. Bombings and kidnappings are a thing of the past, and should not be a concern to visitors at all.

The principal safety concerns for travelers are pickpockets and the occasional taxi crime. Occasional pickpocketing is still present in the city. Mugging rates have gone down by tremendous levels, due to recent governments' new policies, but while they are not frequent they still occur occasionally. In the eventuality that they do happen (not very common) muggers are usually armed with knives or guns, and you should simply give them what they ask for without a fight—it's never anything worth risking your personal safety for. Most districts and neighborhoods that are frequented by travelers have no problems like this whatsoever. But there are certain areas in neighborhoods, that have a certain problem with pickpocketers and the occasional mugging, these include some areas of La Candelaria (after dark on weeknights—daytime walks and F-Sa nights are perfectly fine, no matter where you are), some very small parts of Santa Fé, and to a much lesser extent the more southern parts of Chapinero close to Avenida Caracas. Visitors need to be just a bit more careful in the South. Trust the locals if they tell you an area is unsafe or dangerous.

Taxi crime is a weird problem here (see "Million Dollar Ride" below). While longer-term visitors will find themselves lazily hailing cabs now and then, it is best to call cabs or order through an app, and not hail them off the street. Any cab dispatched will be safe, while hailed cabs are infrequently, (though once a while), a little bit unsafe. It may take a bit longer, but your safety is worth an extra wait. Hotels and nicer restaurants will always be happy to call one for you, and often offer to unprompted.

The Million Dollar Ride (Spanish: Paseo Millonario). Although this infamous event is mostly a thing of the past, separate incidents still occur. It occurs when you hail a taxi on the street, the taxi stops, you get in, then someone else gets in with you, and they take you for a ride until you have taken an important sum out of your bank accounts. This is usually accomplished with threats of violence.

ATM muggings. Pay attention when using cash machines that nobody follows you after you have withdrawn the money. It's a precaution foreign visitors aren't always used to taking, but it's not hard—look around as you step up to the machine to see if anyone's paying too much attention, then do the same afterwards. If someone is, abort and/or go into a store or eatery and stay put. Try to use ATMs that are inside (the supermarket Éxito always has them).

Text from Wikivoyage: Bogotá, written by travelers, under the CC BY-SA 4.0 license. It may have been shortened.